It’s not very often that I am at a loss for words, but the last time I visited CB’s Jamaican Jerk, I left speechless. I wasn’t sure what I wanted, so CB suggested a combination platter of ox tails and ribs with peas and rice, and cabbage as sides. It was a perfect choice.
The ox tails, one of my all-time favorite comfort foods, were rich and succulent, and the fatty meat was falling off the bone. There is only one way to eat ox tails that are so perfectly cooked, and that is with your fingers. The sauce will run down your arms, but it’s so delicious, you won’t be able to stop. The ribs were not as gelatinous, but the meat was tender and falling off the bone and they were also simply delicious, perhaps the best ribs I have ever had.
One of the strong points of CB’s is his amazing homemade jerk seasoning, and don’t even think about asking for the recipe. It is spicy, but not in a hot way. It’s a rub, so it isn’t wet like a BBQ sauce, but the rub penetrates the meat and doesn’t just sit on the surface like some spices. The ribs and chicken are grilled, so they are pleasantly smoky. I do not know of a seasoning that I like more. It’s complex, and will explode in your mouth in a most pleasant way.
I always get the peas and rice and cabbage as sides. They are the perfect counterpoint to all the spice you will find in the ribs, chicken, and oxtails, and are classic Jamaican veggies. They don’t cover up any of the amazing flavors CB has worked so hard to develop over the years but balance out the richness of the meats.
The menu at CB’s is tiny by most standards, but there is no other menu on the Mississippi Gulf Coast that offers such an explosion of flavors. You can choose from jerk chicken, curry chicken, ribs and oxtails and Jamaican style escovitch. How can you go wrong?
CB can generally be found at the Ocean Springs location, which is unfortunately closing soon due to the imminent domain project. It’s a great loss for Ocean Springs. However, the Biloxi location will continue to carry on this amazing culinary tradition.
This is the one restaurant on the Coast you do not want to miss! See you there.
