The Italians have roughly 300 different kinds of pasta (if you think that is a lot, the Chinese have about 1,200 kinds of noodles), but the Italian varieties can be broken down into two basic categories: fresh and dried. 80 percent of pasta eaten in Italy is dried, and the balance is fresh.

Italians do not serve just any pasta with just any sauce. There are rules to follow! Dried pasta is reserved for hearty, thick sauces like bolognese (a meat sauce that is thick and rustic) or midnight pasta (garlic, anchovies, capers), or even Alfredo sauce (butter, heavy cream, and parmesan Reggiano).

Fresh pasta goes with lighter sauces like a basic olive oil and garlic sauce, white wine and butter sauce, or olive oil, lemon juice, and parsley.

Dried pasta is also preferred in the cool months of fall and cold months of winter. Hearty food is warming and deeply satisfying. Who wants to eat a heavy meal on a blistering hot day? 

You didn’t know pasta was this complicated, did you?

I do have an all-time favorite summertime pasta, which really cannot be made any other time of the year and achieve the same satisfying results. It is best on fresh pasta, like a nice linguine, or a simple spaghetti. This is a recipe that is fraught with rules, and if you want it to be as good as it can be (which is very good), do your best to follow the instructions in detail and exactly.

To be the best, this recipe requires fresh, red ripe tomatoes, and to be the very best, the tomatoes should still be warm from the summer sun (it may seem like a silly detail, but it really does make a difference). It is also important to save the juice and seeds when you slice the tomatoes into big, bite-size chunks. Remember, every detail matters!

The basil that makes this dish come alive must also be as fresh as possible. Whatever you do, do not chop the basil in advance. Chop it just before serving. Again, it does make a difference.

The olive oil you use should be the very best you can find (which does mean expensive). The cheaper oils (which the Italians would never use but prefer to ship to us) have no flavor or character at all. Look for an oil that has a bite to it, maybe a little peppery, and is fruity and big in your mouth (like a great glass of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir).

Lastly, the parmesan Regianno must also be the best. The basic rule for parm is the older the better (and more expensive of course) with the very best being five years old (it’s very hard to find).

So, tomatoes, pasta, basil, and parmesan are the basic ingredients for this dish. Do not overcook the pasta, and add all of the other ingredients while the pasta is still hot, just after being drained. Mix it well, and get ready for an amazing pasta experience! 

Julian Brunt is a food and travel writer that has been writing about the food culture of the Deep South for over a decade. He is the eleventh generation of his family to live in the South, grew up in Europe, traveled extensively for the first fifteen years after graduating from the University of Maryland, University College, Heidelberg, Germany. Today, he's a contributor for multiple publications, including Our Mississippi Home. He's also appeared on Gordon Ramsay's television show, "To Hell and Back in 24 Hours."

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